The Consumers and the Vermont Cheese Council

The Fourth Annual Cheese Festival, sponsored by the Vermont Cheese Council in July, was additional evidence that the cheese market has continued to expand “even through the economic downturn,” according to Paul Kindstedt. Cheese lovers and food professionals bought 1750 tickets at a hefty $40 -$50 for the day-long event.

Begun in 1996, The Vermont Cheese Council is the professional and public face of the Vermont artisanal and farmstead cheese industry. The Council showcases cheese and cheese producers through advocacy, marketing, educational and networking events. It also sponsors The Cheese Trail (which National Geographic included in its ‘Drives of a Lifetime’ Series) with maps, farms and cheese descriptions and invites cheese-lovers to visit about 35 cheese producers throughout the state.

The Gatekeepers

To the question, ‘Why?’ came several salutes to people like Paul Kindstedt, Ph.D, Co-Director of Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese (VIAC) at the University of Vermont. It is the first and only comprehensive center of its kind devoted to research and teaching intensive courses on artisan cheesemaking. People like Wendy Hallgren, President of Provisions International, a purveyor who handles forty Vermont cheese-makers, says the Institute is “doing a wonderful job with the science of cheese craft.” It is, says Hallgren, “leading to more consistency of product and more concern among cheesemakers for controlling environments and working out problems. That, and a huge amount of dedication as they continue to hone their craft.”

Angela Miller, owner of organic “Consider Bardwell Farm” in West Pawlet, VT

Kindstedt, a mozzarella expert, tributes Vermont’s success to “the Agency of Agriculture for being small-cheese-making-friendly since the early eighties.” He says the Agency has “provided the vision and resources and gone to great lengths to help cheesemakers.” Diane Bothfeld, Deputy Director of the Vermont Agency of Agriculture, proudly points to her agency’s role as a key player in the cheese evolution because of its proactive policies that have the agency working with prospective cheesemakers from beginning to end. “We do a lot of work at the start up. Our regulators interact with [farmer/processors], help them to set up and work well. They must build a proper facility. If they don’t maintain equipment according to code, they must shut down. We test quality of their milk and make sure they are processing correctly. Vermont is different from other states who come in at the end of the process.” Bothfeld, in turn, hails Kindstedt and the faculty for their research, teaching, and books on the basics of cheesemaking.

In his 2002 book, The Cheeses of Vermont, Henry Tewksbury pointed out that the newcomers “don’t fit the image that the word farmer brings to mind. They’re sharp businesspeople, expert problem solvers, protective of the environment and without exception they love their animals.” Along with respect for Kindstedt, he too, credited the Agency of Agriculture and another now familiar name, Peter Dixon, a, widely respected veteran cheesemaker.

Best Cheesemakers

Jasper Hill Farm

Photo Credit Colin Clark

At Neal’s Yard, Kehler learned that the founders had “scoured the countryside for the last remaining producer of true Lancashire,” which had been eclipsed by a commodity version. “They saved the last producer of these historic cheeses,” he says. The brothers have a different angle, Kehler explains, but the same motivation to save something historic and valuable. “For us, it’s about conservation of the working landscape through developing cheeses that can support that landscape for generations,” he said.

Their goal is to develop new cheeses that become identified with the region—like in Europe—as opposed to individual makers. “We are trying to create something that’s going to outlast Andy and me,” Kehler says. A breakthrough came when a farmer’s co-op asked for help aging a special batch of cheddar in 2003. That cheese, Cabot Clothbound Cheddar, went on to win the American Cheese Society’s Best in Show just three years later. The ongoing partnership paved the way for the Cellars at Jasper Hill, a 22,000-square-foot cheese-aging facility that cost $3 million. (An early investment came from Neal’s Yard Dairy.)

While centralized affinage caves are traditional in Europe, aging cheeses for others was a new concept here. Despite much attention and acclaim, the road has been bumpy at times. In addition to farmstead cheeses made in-house, Jasper Hill’s 80 employees currently age wheels from five other cheesemakers. The 12 cheeses they market will generate $15 million this year. “It’s like having six wives,” Kehler says, explaining that each relationship, including their own cheesemaking operation, requires careful tending.

Since a few years ago, Jasper Hill has refocused on forging new partnerships within a 15-mile radius of their location. They’ve also been investing significantly in feed technology in order to ensure the safety and quality of raw milk. “Our goal is to benefit this community,” Kehler says. “Cheesemaking is just a vehicle to impact the place we live.”

Photo credit Bob Montgomery

Harbison
Jasper Hill Farm
Greensboro Bend, Vt.

Vermont does so many things right, and one thing that all Vermonter's should be proud of is our farmers and farmsteads, which produce some of the best dairy products in the world. From creamy milk to sharp cheddar cheese, Vermont is home to world-class cheese making. With this list, we have found the best cheese in Vermont and where to find it. Let's dive in and take a closer look at the best Vermont cheese.

1. Cabot Creamery

Perhaps the most recognizable cheese maker in Vermont, Cabot Creamery produces an array of fabulous cheeses, some of which continuously win national acclaim. The great thing about Cabot is that you can find their cheese at almost every single grocery store, gas station, and general store in Vermont. You can also visit their Farmer's Store in Waterbury Center and their Village Store in Cabot, Vermont.

2. Jasper Hill Farm

3. Maplebrook Farm