Standard Sewing Machine Needles: A Guide to Choosing the Right Needles for Your Projects

Sewing Made Easy: Choosing the Right Standard Sewing Machine Needles

Apr 15 2025

Sewing Made Easy: Choosing the Right Standard Sewing Machine Needles

Different Sewing Machine Needles Sizes

Hearing about the different sewing machine needle sizes may intimidate us to thinking that this is something that requires a higher skill set to understand. However, understanding the different needle sizes are fairly simple.

There are two standards used for needle sizes: the American and European. It’s just like understanding shoe sizes that there is a corresponding size in Europe for every American size available. For needles, the American needle sizes are from 8 to 19 with 8 being the lightest among them. There are nine different sizes namely 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 16, 18 and 19. For European needle sizes you also have nine different sizes namely 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 90, 100, 110 and 120. The lightest needle is the size 60 needle which is also the counterpart of size 8 in American standards.

The general notion is that needle sizes range between 9-12, yet this depends on the machine type and similar factors.

Here are some general guidelines for most home sewing machines:

For decorative stitches: 0 6 8 12 16

For quilting: Q P N 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

For mending/hems: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

For piecing: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

The lightest needles are the sharpest and thinnest needles. They are used for lighter and sheerer fabrics to avoid any damage that may be caused by the thickness of the needle. The heavier needles (19/120) are used for thick fabrics that need a more-sturdy needle to avoid breaking or bending.

Different Sewing Machine Needle Types for Your Machine

On top of the different sewing machine needles sizes, there are also different sewing machine needle types for different fabrics and stitching. Some are more appropriate for intricate and complicated stitching work. Some are meant for more heavy duty sewing. The most commonly used needle types are Universal (or Ball Point Needle), Sharp, Quilting and Microtex/Milliners.

Sharp needles have a sharp point and will pierce the fabric instead of rolling on it – this creates larger needle holes. Sharp needles are recommended for use on synthetic fabrics or sewing through several layers of fabric and can be used with many different needle materials to achieve a good stitch (i.e. needle type, needle size and needle point).

The sharp point needles are used for fine fabrics to avoid any damage caused by the needle. They have to be sharp to pierce through the woven fabric and not leave any distinguishable marks. Otherwise, your needle might bend or break if it doesn’t pierce through the fabric easily. Such needles are available from the lightest needle sizes to the heaviest needle sizes.

What is the standard size sewing machine needle?

Different sewing machine needles have different sizes. The standard size for a sewing machine needle is usually between 60/8 and 90/14. The size of the needle you use will depend on the fabric you’re sewing with.

Summary Close

The standard size sewing machine needle is usually sized 80/12, 90/14, or 100/16.

How to Read a Sewing Machine Needle Size Chart

When it comes to sewing machine needle sizes, it’s important to understand how to read a needle size chart. This chart provides valuable information about the size and type of needle that is suitable for different fabrics and sewing projects.

By understanding the needle size chart, you can ensure that you’re using the correct needle for your specific needs.

Metric Size System

The metric size system is commonly used in Europe and other parts of the world. In this system, the needle size is denoted by a number that represents the diameter of the needle shaft in millimeters. For example, a needle size of 80 means that the diameter of the needle shaft is 0.80 millimeters.

The smaller the number, the finer the needle.

It’s important to note that the metric size system is not widely used in the United States. However, if you’re purchasing needles from international suppliers or if your sewing machine is from a European brand, you may come across needles with metric sizes.

American Size System

The American size system is the most commonly used system in the United States. In this system, the needle size is denoted by a number followed by a slash and another number. The first number represents the needle size, while the second number represents the needle type.

For example, a needle size of 12/80 means that it is a size 12 needle with an 80 type.

The American size system can be a bit confusing at first, but once you understand how it works, it becomes much easier to read. The needle size ranges from 8 to 19, with 8 being the finest and 19 being the largest.

The needle type ranges from 60 to 120, with 60 being the finest and 120 being the largest.

Types of Needle Points

Needle points come in different shapes, and each shape is designed for a specific purpose. Some common types of needle points include the universal point, ballpoint, sharp point, and stretch needle. The universal point is the most versatile and is suitable for a wide range of fabrics.

The ballpoint is designed for knit fabrics, while the sharp point is ideal for woven fabrics. The stretch needle is specially designed for stretchy fabrics.

Understanding the different types of needle points is essential for achieving the best results in your sewing projects. Using the wrong needle point for a specific fabric can result in skipped stitches, fabric damage, or even a broken needle.

Sewing Machine Needles and Their Uses

Whether the sewing process is done by hand or with machine assistance, a needle is always the key component. However, we cannot use the same type of needles for both hand sewing and machine sewing. The machine needle’s purpose is to make a hole in the fabric thus allowing the sewing thread to pass through the material. It also allows the thread to create a loop making the stitch complete.

A sewing machine needle is comprised of the following elements:

  • 1. Butt – located at the needle’s very end. It’s used to attach the needle to the sewing machine.
  • 2. Shank – the basis and the widest part of the needle. It is located under the butt and is tied to the needle bar. There are two kinds of shanks — flat and cylindrical.
  • 3. Shoulder – a part that follows the shank. It reduces friction between the needle and the fabric.
  • 4. Blade – the needle’s narrowest part. Of course, t his is the point of maximum friction between the needle and the fabric.
  • 5. Long groove – r educes friction between the needle, fabric and the sewing thread.
  • 6. Short groove – the part between the tip and the eye of the needle. It creates the loop together with the sewing thread.
  • 7. The eye of the needle – the opening at the needle’s top. In short, its purpose is to hold the thread.
  • 8. Scarf – The curved slot located above the eye that closes the setting between the looper and the needle.
  • 9. Point – Sharpe top of the needle and the first element that touches the fabric.

There are three common types of needle points – universal, sharp and ballpoint. However, note that different fabric types require different types of needle points. We use the sharp point when sewing straight lines. Knit fabric needs the point to glide between the loops damaging neither the fibers nor the fabric and that is when we use ballpoint needles.

Obviously, we can use universal needles for both types of fabric. This is, of course, because the point of a universal needle is both sharp and rounded, allowing the needle to have the characteristics of sharp and ballpoint needles alike.