Types of Stretch Fabrics

Stretch fabric is a generic term for any textile, knitted or woven, that has a greater amount of recovery and stretch than is normally expected. These textiles can be stretch-woven fabrics, single knits, some double knits, and even bias-cut fabrics.

Most elastic fabrics are knits. Jersey fabrics make up a large percentage of this group. The most prominent feature of these fabrics is their 4-way stretch. This means they extend both crosswise and lengthwise. There are some stretch fabrics – usually heavier ones – that only have a 2-way stretch. Therefore, it is vital to make sure you check you are using the right kind of stretchy fabric for your project.

Hot tips for working with elastic fabric

By following a few simple tricks and tips, your knowledge of how to sew stretchy fabric will sky rocket. Ensuring the finished seams lie neatly and flat and at the same time don’t break when the garment is used is your endgame.

5 main tricks to knowing how to sew elastic fabric

1. Always pre-wash your stretchy fabric – leave it to dry flat for at least a day so that it keeps its shape
2. Ensure you have the right fabric for your project or pattern
3. Choose the right needle – all stretchy knit fabrics should be sewn with a special needle; either a ballpoint or a stretch needle. A ballpoint needle consists of a rounded tip, which pushes the yarns away when sewing. It avoids damaging knit fabric while cutting and sewing. This contrasts with the usual piercing through and ripping them. Ensure you opt for the right size of needle for your fabric.
4. Select the right thread – special threads are not usually required and a regular polyester thread works well as it has a slight amount of stretch. Stay away from cotton thread as it can break when pulled
5. Use stitches that will hold the stretch of the fabric – the stitches need to stretch with the fabric, so they don’t pucker and break. If you must sew with a straight stitch, then hold the material taut, but don’t pull it.

TOP TIP: Knowing how to sew stretchy fabric involves knowing how to cut and handle your fabric. The most important thing to remember when cutting your fabric is not to stretch it. We recommend laying it flat on a table or other flat work surface. Don’t let the fabric hang over the edges, as this could stretch it out of place. Some other top tips for knowing how to sew stretchy fabric and how to handle it during the sewing process include:

• Take your pattern and place it on the fabric – to keep your fabric in place, pin it and cut out the patterns with scissors OR use paper weights and a rotary cutter.
• Try to keep pins inside the seam allowance – this avoids opening unwanted holes in the garment
• Take away the curl – some kinds of stretchy fabrics – such as knitted jersey – have edges that tend to curl. This can make it even harder to sew. To reverse the curl, use a starchy spray and press the edges

How To Sew Stretchy Fabric Without Going Mad – A Beginner’s Guide

It’s no secret that sewing with stretchy fabric can be somewhat of a challenge (some people find it downright scary!) Stretch fabrics tend to make up a huge majority of people’s wardrobes. They are comfortable, easy to wear and require minimal care. Learning how to sew elastic fabric will give you the confidence to push your sewing skills. And trust us: it isn’t as hard as you might think.

What is a Stretch Needle for Sewing?

A stretch needle may sound a bit like an oxymoron. The last thing you want is for your rigid sewing needle to start flexing and stretching everywhere! Thankfully, the needle itself is every bit as firm as any other needle.

This needle works excellent with swimwear, stretchy knits, and all elastic materials. Visually, this needle has a shorter eye than a standard needle, a special flat shank, a deep scarf, and is specially designed to prevent skipped stitches on stretchy fabrics. It has a medium ballpoint tip (less rounded than the Jersey/Ballpoint needle).

What makes a stretch needle particularly useful is that it has a specific coating on the outside of the needle that helps it glide through those rubbery fabric strands. It’s pretty amazing!

In fact, the more stretchy a fabric is, the better the stretch needle will do. If you are on the fence or in doubt about whether you should use a standard needle or this one, I say go with stretch!

Do you need a stretch needle?

If you are someone who enjoys sewing, the answer is an absolute YES. A pack of stretch needles will set you back between $5-$12. At this price point, I’d highly recommend you stock up and get a few sizes—you never know when it may come in handy!

Why should I use a stretch needle? What happens if I use a regular needle instead?

Can you sew through stretch fabric with a regular needle? Of course, you can! I did it for years without realizing that there was a better option out there.

But if you have ever experienced the frustrating process of having tangles of thread again and again, or dealing with uneven, broken stitching when sewing elastic, this needle is a game-changer!

I especially like to sew elastic with stretch needles. Most of the time I’m only sewing the two ends of the elastic together. And my sewing machine doesn’t like to sew elastic with a regular needle, I always have this kind of thread bunching if I forget to change the needle to the stretch one. The regular needle also seems to be causing the rubber strands in the elastic to break and this is another reason for the thread loops on the bottom.

But if I use the stretch needle I don’t have any problem sewing elastic.