Key Skills You’ll Use

Here are the sewing skills you’ll practice while making a soft support bra from stretch fabric:

• Adapting a pattern to make a bra
• Sewing stretch fabrics using a zigzag stitch or other stretch stitch
• The burrito method of finishing the straps on a bodice
• Working with multiple layers of fabric to created a lined bra
• Creating a fabric covered elastic bra band
• Sewing on a bra hook and eye closure

How to Get the Pattern & Alter It

Go to my free pattern gallery and download the racerback tank pattern. We are using the shelf bra pieces from that pattern in order to make this soft knit bra.

To get this pattern, you must either be a free newsletter subscriber or have purchased a gallery access pass. Then click your preferred option from the buttons below. Existing newsletter subscribers should look at the bottom of the most recent Friday newsletter for the current free pattern gallery password. If you purchased the all access pass you’ll log in to your shop account to download the pattern. Note that the free version of the pattern does not have printable instructions so you’ll need to refer to this post for instructions.

In addition to the shelf bra pattern pieces from the racerback tank, you’ll need to cut a rectangle to cover the elastic. It should be 2 1/2 inches tall and 27 inches long for the size small or 53 inches long for the size 5x.

The only pattern alteration I made to the racerback tank top pattern is shown above. I retraced the back portion of the shelf bra and added a small cutout at center back at the bottom. I went 1 inch up and 1 inch over and curved a line between those two points. That will make the keyhole above the bra clasp.

How to do a Dartless Full Bust Adjustment

If you are larger than the cup sizes mentioned above, you’ll want to do a full bust adjustment to avoid boobage spilling over the sides of the this bra. Here’s how.

You can see a video tutorial of how to sew up this bra below or on YouTube here. Sew all seams with a 1/4 inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch unless otherwise specified.

Conclusion

Now that you’ve see how to alter a shelf bra pattern to make a racerback bra and learned how to cut out the pattern pieces and sew them together, you can play with refining the fit. Since this bra doesn’t take a lot of fabric you can also play with color blocking or adding style lines. Stretch your creativity!

• What material is used to make a sports bra?
  I used cotton spandex and nylon mesh in mine, but you can also use lycra, supplex or other athletic knits as long as they have 4 way stretch.
• How to make a sports bra out of leggings?
  If you have old leggings with holes in them you can do some creative cutting of pattern pieces in order to turn them into a sports bra. Leggings fabric generally has 4 way stretch so this is a good way to repurpose.

About Melissa Mora

Melissa is an author, pattern designer, fabric designer, and sewing instructor with over 30 years of sewing experience.

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